1.
Before any thing is disassembled, first turn off the
main battery disconnect. An important
note is that disconnecting the battery
disconnect switch does not kill power from a battery post or the cables between
the batteries. This should still be
the first step before any electrical work is done on the vehicle.
2.
Begin inside the vehicle cab from the top of the
battery tunnel. Remove the center arm
rest pad and console. The park brake
lever (if ratcheting handle type) will have to be in the engaged position so
that the handle is raised in order to remove the center pad (and tunnel cover
once the console is removed later).
Disconnect the wiring harness plug from the console then the console can
then be slid back slightly, lifted up and removed. The heater tube hoses might have to be
removed from the console if the vehicle is equipped with a heater. The center aluminum tunnel cover, which is attached
by Velcro, can then be lifted off.
3. On an EXV2, the cab access area only reaches a limited amount of the batteries, so there is another access point from the top of the flatbed (2007-newer only). Remove the panel in this area by releasing the four quarter-turn fasteners that secure it. The batteries can all be removed through these access areas, but some of the following steps may have to be shuffled depending on what is easier for each person who attempts it.
4.
The battery float caps for the filling system can now
be removed starting with the front battery.
Each float (BFS) cap is attached to the fill hose so the floats will
have to be laid aside so that they will not get in the way of the rest of the
disassembly, but so that they will not get acid on anything that might be
sensitive to it. Remove the BFS caps
from the front battery and replace them with the single battery caps that come
on the new batteries.
5.
Next remove the caps from the next battery in
line. Once the float caps for a battery
have been removed you can now access the battery jumper cable that runs
underneath the fill system. Remove the
battery jumper cable that is accessible.
While taking the cables off, make sure that the loose end is not in
contact with anything that could cause arcing until the other end of the jumper
cable can be removed as well. Place
another cap from the new batteries onto the next battery.
6.
Continue repeating step 6 for one battery at a time until
the entire watering system has been removed and replaced with individual
battery caps and all the battery cable jumpers have been removed.
7.
At this point, the cable from the main power disconnect
to the first battery (-) post and the battery cable from the rear battery (+)
post that goes to the main drive fuse as well as all other wires that are
attached to the rear battery post stud can be removed. Also remove the plug for the float sensor
found in the rear battery.
8.
Remove the battery hold-down system bars across the top
of each pair of batteries and remove the batteries from the chassis. Lift the batteries using the hooks on the
outside of the case or support from the bottom of the battery. Do not lift the batteries by the terminal
posts.
9. Once
the old batteries are removed from the chassis, put all the individual caps
back on the new batteries for installation into the chassis.
1.
Locate the battery with the stud posts that will be the
rear battery. Using a hole saw, drill a
1 1/16” hole in the battery top centered 2 1/8” from the edge opposite the
posts and 7/8” from the passenger side of the battery (the battery sits in the
vehicle with the posts to the rear).
Take care to keep the debris from the drilling process out of the
battery. Use light pressure on the drill
so there is very little drill penetration past the plastic face that is being
removed.
2.
Pry the battery float plug from the old rear battery
and clean the silicone from around the mating surface. Using clear silicone, reapply a bead around
the circumference of the float plug and install into the new battery hole. Allow the silicone to set up before moving
the battery.
3.
Install the batteries (with the individual caps in
place). Install the batteries one at a
time and reattach the battery hold-down hooks and brackets. The hold-down hooks will have to be installed
prior to the batteries or alternatively ahead of each battery. Install hooks from the inside of the battery
hold-down rails. Note that the battery
with the stud posts and the float sensor will go in the rear.
4.
Assemble the battery water system and jumper cables in
the reverse order they were disassembled.
Use the same method of installing one cable and one battery’s floats at
a time. The cables should be attached
from positive post of one battery to the negative post of the next. Leave a positive post on the rear battery for
the cable from the main drive fuse and the negative post on the front battery
for the cable from the main disconnect switch.
Both of these cables will be assembled last. Notice that the jumper cables have red and
black heat shrink and should be connected to the corresponding posts of the
batteries (Red-Positive and Black-Negative).
Also note that the positive and negative posts are a different size and
the cables are made accordingly. There
is a taper on the posts and the cables should be assembled to match. Make sure that all connections are clean and
tight and that all battery floats are fastened securely before proceeding.
5.
Reattach the cable from the main drive fuse to the
positive (+) post on the rear battery and the cable from the main disconnect
switch to the negative (-) post on the front battery. Also, replace any wires to the positive post
stud on the rear battery. Connect the
appropriate wiring harness plug to the battery float sensor plug.
6.
Charge the batteries completely before operating the
vehicle.
7.
Fill the battery water only after charging and before
operating the vehicle.
Always dispose of batteries in a
responsible manner. Follow your local
authorized standards for disposal. Call
your local authorized recycling center to find out more about recycling
batteries.